Saturday, February 21, 2009

Carnival of Binche




This coming Wednesday, February 25, is Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent in the Christian calendar.  There are a number of carnivals in the world that occur at this time of year with those in Rio and New Orleans being the more famous.  The Carnival of Binche is a pre-Lenten festival that takes place each year in the Belgian town of Binche.   Legend has it that the English word 'binge' is derived from the name Binche.

There is a long history behind the Carnival of Binche, but many legends have also arisen that may not be completely truthful. It is said that the carnival goes back to 1549, but others claim that the tradition of the carnival is older and evidence has been found of a similar sort of event occurring in the late 14th or early 15th century, which was then known as Quaresmiaux, or Caresmiaux.  However, it may be even older because of the religious traditions that it has always been linked to - Lent, and the Catholic and Christian religion.

The carnival can be divided into two parts; first there is the 49 days approaching Lent and before the actual carnival, which are still considered to be part of the carnival. On each of the Sundays of these 7 weeks, a certain ritualistic ceremony, dance, act or some preparation for the carnival can be expected to occur. After this, the 'fatty' days occur, of which there are 3. The main event occurs in the centre of the town, and this performance mostly consists of the principal performers, the Gilles, who are clown-like performers, dancing to the sound of drums. There are also several other companies of performers, including the Harlequin, the children of the city's high schools, the Peasant and the Pierrots. There is also the Sailor, but he has not performed in recent carnivals.



First part of the Carnival

On the sixth and fifth Sunday before the carnival, Gilles and other such people march through the streets, heralded by the sound of the drums. However, these people are without their costumes at this time.

During the fourth and third Sunday preceding the carnival, the performers and company dance to the sound of drums all through the day. They are fitted with several characteristic garments, including shoes of wood.

When it is but two Sundays away from the main event of the carnival, copper instruments mix with the drums, playing the twenty-six traditional airs of the carnival. The performers are dressed in the clothes they wore to the previous Fat Sunday.

However, instead of something occurring on the Sunday before the carnival, it is on Monday (six days preceding the main festivities) that the people of Binche are 'traditionally' able to walk around in the public while garbed in their disguises. People who do not wear disguises effective enough to conceal their identity during this masquerade must pay the person who uncovered them, but honour is granted to those who are able to disguise themselves successfully.

Second part of the Carnival

Fat Sunday (Quinquagesima)

This is the day where the actual performers can be seen wearing their costumes, which are inspired by things such as animals, stereotyped people and characters, among others. A whole company of performers can occasionally be seen to be dressed uniformly, but this is rare. At a certain time during the day, the various companies are reconstituted around the station where a procession is oriented, to the rhythm of the twenty-six airs of the Carnival. Visitors get a kind of "sneak peek" of the festival.

Fat Monday

On the morning of the Monday, Gilles dance in the streets to the sound of barrel organs, while people meet all around the town for what is known as 'the battle of confetti'. Later, a political affair is held, where people make various speeches concerning a variety of subjects and matters. Then people will head towards the statue of the 'Lady of Binche' at around 7:00pm, where a display of fireworks will be released.

Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras)

The very last day of the carnival, but which many argue is the best. The day begins for many at around 4 am, where a collection will be taken. The Gilles will go to have a breakfast of oysters and champagne, as is the tradition. When the morning ends, the performers move towards the town square where they will do their acts and performances. The Harlequins will proceed to the town hall to receive medals based on their age grouping. At around 3 or 4 pm, the companies will come together once more for a last procession past the statue of the Peasant to the town square. During this procession, certain Gilles wear a hat of feathers of ostrich, and “oranges of Gille”, small blood oranges, are thrown to (and sometimes at) the crowd.

The population mill around the streets until the fireworks display occurs, which happens after a final performance by the companies. The carnival is then formally completed, but the festivities continue long into the night. However, all of this must cease before sunrise on Ash Wednesday

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